CKCA is dedicated to the ongoing continuous improvement in the Kitchen Cabinet sector!
One of the key things we want to promote is a “Made in Canada“ product.
CKCA has developed a tool to help kitchen manufacturers promote their Canadian products. Get all the details here.
CKCA Members can get a pamphlet template to use at home shows and other trade shows. If you want information on getting the template, please contact email@example.com.
Here are some of the top reasons to buy Canadian:
Canada is innovative and our manufacturers follow latest trends to bring you the most current European designs without having to pay higher prices to bring product from Europe.
Canada uses the same construction methods as Europe.
Canada is well respected world-wide for its wood crafting, we are excellent cabinetmakers!
CKCA members may carry the only Canadian kitchen cabinet manufacturing certification in Canada, this credential gives the consumer a level of quality assurance you cannot get anywhere else (please click herefor a list of certified CKCA member manufacturers).
Support the local Canadian Economy – employ local people and support local businesses.
Avoid the hidden extra costs of duties and import fees.
Quality lead times – no need to wait for shipments from overseas, helps local sales service
Local after sales service, ease of warranty issue dilemmas.
Our products meet Canada’s Health and Safety standards due to the high regulation of our industry as a result our products keep us all safe.
Direct impact on our economy in positive ways, every dollar that is spent in Canada buying Canadian products has a ripple effect. We contribute to the large tax revenue base that helps fund our government programs.
You help to create and support manufacturing jobs in Canada which in turn provides more workers who will pay taxes, spend money buying other goods and services that maintains a healthy Canadian economy, nationally, provincially and locally.
You help reduce the carbon footprint when you buy a Canadian Cabinet. Far less transportation costs.
Melamine used in cabinet construction meets or exceeds the HUD Standards for emissions.
Water based finishes help to reduce our VOC’s and helps protect our environment.
Our workers are paid and treated fairly, work in a safe and sanitary environments.
Canadian kitchen companies meet and/or exceed high employment standards.
Buying Canadian is patriotic and makes you feel good that your consumer dollars are going to fellow Canadians and keeping our economy strong.
Kitchen cabinetry material are often produced from wood, Veneer, Particle board, MDF, Stainless steel, plastic laminate, melamines and Thermofoil,
Here’s a list of the primary cabinet materials you’ll encounter:
Solid Wood – is solid wood all the way through. “Solid wood” should represent whole, uniform lumber, not a fabrication or wood composite, like particle board, MDF or even plywood. Commonly used for cabinet fronts, counters, moulding, corbels and edges.
Medium density fiberboard (MDF) – a engineered wood product that’s made up of wood fibers. The fibers are combined with an adhesive under pressure and formed into boards and panels. MDF has a finer texture than particle board and is denser and heavier than particle board. It’s used in cabinet doors, shelves and cabinet boxes.
Solid Wood vs MDF
Solid wood has many benefits and is available in a variety of species. Since solid wood boards typically expand and contract both horizontally and vertically when temperatures and humidity rise and fall, cabinets, doors and panels made from solid wood require a high level of care and maintenance.
When solid wood is installed it is essential to maintain proper humidity levels in the home, humidity levels vary depending on where you live, however the general recommendation is 35-40%.
Medium density fiberboard (MDF) is a high grade, composite material that performs better then solid wood in many areas. It is made from recycled wood fibers and resin, is machine dried and pressed to produce dense, stable sheets. MDF is more stable then solid wood and stands up better to changes in heat and humidity.
In the construction of painted cabinet doors, MDF outperforms solid wood. The conventional frame and panel method (5-piece construction) building solid wood doors involves connecting five separate pieces. Four frame pieces and a center panel cut slightly smaller than the frame to allow for expansion and contraction. MDF because it is made of wood fibers in sheets, can be milled by CNC (computer controlled machinery) in one-piece frames with the center cut out for a recessed panel. Because of its density, MDF does not move independently from the inserted panel and does not need to float like the conventional five-piece solid wood door. Since the mdf panel does not float within the frame, hairline cracks do not form along the edges of the panel or at the style and rail joinery. MDF will expand and contract but with this 2-piece construction method the doors move as a unit and not as individual pieces of wood, therefore the paint does not crack or peel at the joints. MDF does not have any visible wood grain and knots which is an added benefit in a painted finish.
MDF is commonly offered in a variety of painted lacquer finishes including, 20,40 60 degree sheens, glaze finishes and hi-gloss polyurethanes.
Plywood is a sheet material manufactured from thin layers or “plies” of wood veneer that are glued together with adjacent layers having their wood grain rotated up to 90 degrees to one another. Plywood is used for shelving, doors and cabinet boxes.
Plywood is usually an upgrade, from particle board or MDF, with most cabinet manufacturers
Stainless steel/metal – Stainless steel in kitchens is generally used for countertops, hoods, reveals, for the underside of stoves, and fronts. There are different grades and surface finishes of stainless steel to suit the environment the alloy must endure. Stainless steel is used where both the properties of steel and corrosion resistance are required, but is also used for it industrial look, durability and versatility.
It doesn’t chip, bend, or crack easily (though it does scratch), and it stays shiny over years of use. Stainless steel is a metal alloy with about 10-11% chromium. When exposed to air, the chromium in the metal forms a film of chromium oxide over the surface. This film is passive and non-toxic, and most importantly, it prevents the steel from rusting by shielding it from air and moisture. Even if the metal gets scratched, the chromium oxide reforms seamlessly.
This gives us all the excellent properties of stainless steel without the worry of rust. It’s also non-reactive, unlike aluminum and iron, so we can use it for preparing and cooking acidic foods.
Plastic laminate – Laminate is a synthetic coating glued to the cabinet box and/or doors. Usually craft paper and resin fused with heat, it can be manufactured in a wide variety of colors, patterns and textures, including wood grain. A high-pressure laminate (HPL) is fused at a higher temperature and pressure, and lasts longer, than a low-pressure laminate (LPL).
When selecting a laminate cabinet, you should ask about the substrate – the cabinet box under the laminate coating. Is it plywood, particle board or fiberboard? A cabinet box made from a lower-grade particle board will not hold up well.
Laminate cabinets are easy to clean. Laminate is difficult to repair if it gets damaged, replacement is usually recommended.
Melamine – Melamine starts with a compressed wood particle core. It is then covered with a resin and paper finish that can be manufactured to various styles and colours.
Melamine cabinets are resistant to many of the common issues presented in a kitchen, whether it be excessive moisture, heat or stains. The reason why melamine can resist these external elements is because of its tough outer coating. This coating is also easy to clean. Melamine is a synthetic material and is produced with an almost endless number of finishes. You can select from faux wood grains in various shades or solid colours.
Melamine offers a consistent finish since it is manufactured in a controlled setting. And is offered at a much lower price point.
Melamine can chip and is susceptible to water damage. It is commonly used for cabinet interiors and can also be used as cabinet fronts and parts.
Thermofoil, UV panels & Acrylic panel – is a surface finish applied to cabinets by multiple manufacturers. It is a plastic material which is thermoformed to the profile of an underlying engineered wood core such as medium-density fiberboard.
Thermofoil has great resistance to moisture, making it an ideal choice for bathroom cabinets, where humidity needs to be factored in. Thermofoil is more affordable and easier to clean than traditional wood cabinets. Thermofoil cabinets are also available in a wide variety of looks,
Thermafoil is not heat-resistant, so ensuring it is not installed too close to an oven or other heating source, such as the laminate peeling away from the core and discoloring . To protect the cabinetry, heat shields can be installed (which are essentially just metal strips) between the heat source and the cabinets, which will handle this issue.
High Gloss Finishes
High gloss finishes entered the realm of kitchen cabinetry several years ago in Europe and since then, North America has caught on to the popularity of the look, and high-gloss is becoming more prominent in everything from kitchens and baths, to closets and furniture. Materials technology has also advanced to bring high gloss to market across all price points.
High gloss can create emphatic contrast, particularly when used with surfaces that reflect nature, like the dark, textured wood grains that are also gaining in popularity. The use of high gloss for accent colors can really pop and a white high gloss kitchen gives a sleek, clean, modern feel.
Methods for Achieving High Gloss
The classic approach to high gloss is to simultaneously apply paint and a high gloss lacquer to wood or mdf. This is best when it is professionally applied to ensure a uniform sheen. Lacquer is a good material for high-gloss finishes because it’s easy to work with and can be sanded flat and polished to a high gloss. The problem with high-gloss finishes is that with crisp reflections surface defects are very obvious. The finishing process is highly labor intensive which can makes it more expensive than other options.
Other options for high gloss cabinets are thermofoil, acrylic, laminate and UV panels. This relatively new material is increasing in popularity due to its contemporary look and durability. These options waterproof, will not warp or yellow in the sun.
Traditional laminates, both HPL and TFM, offer high gloss finishes. There are several ways that this is achieved, including specialty overlays and technologies that impart textures (including press plates, release papers and belts). Technical HotCoating is another method that is beginning to make its way into the North American laminates market. For this process PUR is heated and applied in an even coat directly over melamine. In all cases the panel is sealed. Laminates are typically scratch and water resistant, characteristics that are increased with HotCoating.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]
The differences between, Contemporary, traditional & transitional
The contemporary kitchen is clean, straight and sleek. Less is more, meaning fewer accessories, hidden appliances and minimal details. Cabinets are flat-front wooden, steel or lacquered. Countertops are square-edged, often metal or underlighted glass. Light fixtures are works of art.
Traditional cabinetry is inspired from the reminiscent of 18th- and 19th-century furniture. Architectural details such as flutes, moulding, columns, beadboard and custom hoods with corbels. Old World formal traditional cabinetry has painted-white cabinets and rustic additions such as wooden countertops, scraped wooden flooring and farm sinks. Lighting is more functional than artsy, and accessories are formal. Countertops are neutral, while backsplashes may be tumbled stone.
A kitchen that designers call transitional, falls somewhere between traditional and contemporary. A perfect choice when you want to take on a modern or slightly edgier approach to traditional.
Do not purchase your appliances, sinks and faucets until your kitchen design is finalized. Plumbing accessories & appliances have certain specifications and ensuring the cabinetry can be built to fit your appliances & that electrical & gas requirements can be met can save you money.
Consider who will be responsible for electricians, plumbers, tile contractors, drywall, carpenters, cabinet installers and all other trades involved with a new kitchen. Plan on where you will be living/cooking while yours in under construction.
Dust is to be expected. Keep in mind that a kitchen renovation will create some dust in the home. Using poly to seal of the area
Move furniture and valuables out of the area is recommended or cover with blankets.
If it’s a renovation and you will not be replacing floors, make sure you protect them.
Take a break, plan time away including dinners out and weekend getaways.
So How Long Does All of This Take?
The size and scope of your product will determine the time frame, which typically is four to six weeks for simple improvements, or four to eight months for a full-scale remodel.
Beware of Delivery Times
Cabinetry manufacturers have different delivery times, cabinetry can take 4 to 16 weeks.
All woods have two characteristics that play important roles in determining their final appearance: their natural colour and the size of their pores. Unlike paint, both water-based and oil-based stains are absorbed into the wood rather than laying on top of it. For that reason, the natural wood colour will blend with the colour of the stain you choose. In order to accurately predict the final colour of your project, always test any stain you select on an inconspicuous place on the wood first.
In addition to their natural colour, each species of wood has unique properties that will also affect the staining results. Because wood is a natural product, it will vary in texture, color and grain. It may also change over time because of its exposure to sunlight.
Cherry: one of the most popular woods used in cabinets because of its medium reddish brown color and its uniform grain color. It also is more expensive than some other types of wood. It’s the most elegant and modern of the hardwoods. And because it takes so well to stains, it can also be made to look vintage. The warm and rich color darkens with time and is as expensive as it looks.
Maple: a popular wood option. It is lighter than cherry but has a smoother texture and thus is an ideal wood for painted or stained finishes. Maple is very popular for its character and versatility ranging from country kitchens to modern ones. Its grain is tight, uniform and consistent, and any existing streaks will darken when stained. These fine lines and curling waves are considered very attractive and will increase the value and beauty of the wood.
Oak: Legendary for its strength, oak is also a less expensive hardwood due to its abundance in America. For that reason, oak is also very common in homes and has been for centuries. It’s the toughest of the hardwoods and very damage resistant. The grain can be fairly patterned making it perfect for traditional or rustic cabinets.
Red Oak: Prominent grain pattern in, it has a lighter brown color and is rich in texture with a distinctive pattern of grain that many homeowners like.
Pine: A more affordable wood option. It provides a distinctively rustic look that is popular in a more traditional or country kitchen design. Pine is a softer wood, however, and may dent or scratch more easily than some other woods. It’s best in kitchens and bathrooms that are used gently. The pale yellow color can be easily stained and features very distinct knots. They give pine a rustic, country feel that elevates any traditional home.
Mahogany: Known as the premier wood for fine cabinetry. It has a deep rich reddish-brown color and a characteristic swirling grain that produces an attractive design; it polishes to a high luster. Because this species of wood is becoming increasingly more rare and because it proves to be extremely durable, it is priced significantly higher than the more common woods such as pine and oak.
Alder: Pale red to a brownish-red, alder features a grain that can be completely clear to very rustic with lots of knots and streaks. It takes well to stains and finishes, so it is a very versatile hardwood option.
Beech: Beech has a closed grain, meaning that pores are small and feel smooth. Colors range from blond to light brown and it is very hard and durable, second only to oak.
Hickory: The dense, vivid variations in hickory’s color and grain patterns make it a very bold hardwood. You can have different flows and shades in a single piece of wood, but it’s also smooth and easy to stain.
Birch: Birch is a soft, lush wood which stains extremely well. It is similar to cherry; smooth to touch with subtle patterns that make a room feel warm and cozy.
On wood cabinets the finish is just as important as how well the cabinets are constructed. The finish not only provides aesthetic appeal but is a key component in the protection of the underlying wood surface. It needs that protection from the moisture and chemicals that are typical in a kitchen.
(Keep in mind we’re talking about wood cabinets. Cabinets covered in laminate or melamine aren’t coated with these types of finishes and surface treatments.)
The amount of material to explain the science behind the varnishes, lacquers and other cabinet surface treatments could fill a book but it’s not necessary for a basic understanding of how a cabinet is put together. What we’ll focus on here are some of the common finishes that you’re apt to encounter in your cabinet research and their important features.
These are the most common finish treatments that you’ll find on kitchen cabinets:
Paint – The benefit of paint is that you have a limitless color palette available to you. MDF is a better option when painting (see section MDF vs Solid)
Water based is a generic term that applies to finishing that use water as a primary thinning agent. When you call a finish “water-base” it means that solvent-base was not used. Typically water base finishes have higher solid content which helps the finish bind faster, requiring fewer coats. Water base finishes are resistant to scratches and produces a hard, long lasting finish.
Water based finishes are non-flammable and contain fewer environmentally hazardous materials, resulting in a product that is safer to apply, and more appealing to the consumer.
Wipe or Spray Stains
Both methods are great depending on the look you want to achieve. Wipe the stain if you want to accentuate the grain, spray the stain if you want the stain to colour evenly.
The primary purpose of a sealer is to prepare the surface of the wood for future coats of finish. The sealer can promote adhesion, minimize grain raising and prevent the migration of underlying substances. There are also used as barrier coats to seal-in surface impurities and prevent them from leaking out of the wood through the finish. They can help two materials bond that wouldn’t normally to each other.
Varnish – Varnish is a combination of oil and resin that’s used to provide a protective layer over the wood and any other surface treatment like stain.
One of the finishing terms you’ll probably encounter more often than not is “catalyzed varnish”. It sounds high tech and in some respects it is. In more simple terms it defines a type of finish that uses a “catalyst” to cause or speed up a particular reaction between the chemicals in the finish, usually to achieve some specific result. Catalyzed varnish incorporates compounds that make it harder and more durable than it would be without them.
Lacquer – Lacquer is another top-coat protective sealer used on cabinets and furniture. It’s made by dissolving a resin in a solvent. It too can be “catalyzed” and you’ll see references to “catalyzed lacquer” in various cabinet.
Glaze – Glaze is a pigmented but transparent or semi-transparent coating that’s applied over a base coating such as paint or stain. Glaze is used to enhance the look of cabinets by highlighting the underlying base color and bringing out surface detail. When glaze is applied and then hand wiped some of the glaze remains in the corners and recesses of doors, providing additional visual highlights.
The Finishing Process
The cabinet finishing process is dependent on the type of finishes used and the individual cabinet maker’s capabilities and formula. Large cabinet manufacturers may have sophisticated facilities and processes to apply the finish whereas smaller cabinet makers may take a simpler approach or even farm out the finishing process to a local firm that specializes in that type of work.
Wood cabinet finishing involves a number of steps that involve preparing the wood, applying the surface treatments and baking the finish.
Larger cabinet makers may have the resources and advanced production capabilities to produce consistent quality finishes. Smaller shops may not have the same capabilities. One of the things on your checklist when researching smaller cabinet shops should be their finishing process. Achieving a quality finish requires controlled conditions free from airborne dirt and dust. Just be sure you understand your cabinet maker’s finishing capabilities and whether they’ll produce a product that will hold up to the rigors of the kitchen environment.
The finish options you choose will have a bearing on the final cost of your cabinets. Finishes that include hand-rubbed treatments or multi-step coating applications take time and ultimately raise the cost of the cabinets. Some examples are glazing and high gloss polyurethanes.
Framed cabinets have been around for centuries and are known to be more traditional, there are many good reasons why they are still being built and why they will continue to be built. Have you ever felt around your kitchen cabinets and encountered a “lip” around the cabinet? That’s a framed cabinet.
The frame strengthens the cabinet box and prevents it from getting “out of square.” If the cabinet does not maintain its 90 degree angles, the door will stick and other problems will ensue. The frame is a flat, strong place to hang the cabinet doors from. The frame is wider than the cabinet allowing more clearance space so you can butt two cabinets together and get a clean, seamless look.
This lip decreases storage room. The storage width of the cabinet is decreased by the width of the frame on either side. If you’re interested in options like roll-out shelves, these too will prove more difficult (though not impossible) to mount because of the lip.
Frameless cabinet construction is a European way of manufacturing cabinets that has become popular among consumers seeking contemporary cabinet designs. Frameless cabinetry is sometimes called “full access” cabinetry as it offers greater accessibility by eliminating the face frame. Instead, it relies on thicker box construction for stability. Only full overlay doors can be used, with hinges attached directly to the sides of the cabinet box.
In frameless construction, cabinets do not have a face frame attached to the front of the cabinet box. After they have been installed, all you will see are the flat door and drawer fronts, providing a sleek, simple aesthetic that can work with many design themes throughout the home.
Frameless cabinets do not have a center stile coming down in the middle of the two cabinet doors, providing easier access to the items inside, as well as more storage space to work with. The shelves are typically adjustable. Drawers in frameless cabinetry also tend to be larger because of the space saved by not having a face frame attached to the front.
So what’s the significance of these differences? Not too much, other than some style differences and a little less accessibility to the inside of framed cabinets. They both work well and just evolved from different design traditions.
One area that tends to get misunderstood involves the terms stock, semi-custom and custom. Contrary to what many people think, these terms are not related to the quality of cabinets but rather, how they’re manufactured.
Here are the basic definitions:
Stock – Stock cabinets are pre-manufactured in specific sizes, typically 3″ increments, with few if any options for customization other than some limited choices the manufacturer might offer. They are off-the-shelf products in a limited range of styles.
Semi-Custom – Semi-custom units are like stock in that they’re also pre-manufactured or ordered from a catalog but come with a wider array of options and in more sizes than pure stock cabinets. With semi-custom you have some ability to pick and choose various details to tailor an otherwise pre-built stock product. In other words, you have some customization choices.
Custom – Custom cabinets are built to the customer’s specifications, with no limitation on size, style choices, wood grade or finish. They are truly made-to-order. They may be fancy or they may be plain but the difference is that they’re made to suit your specific design requirements, in whatever size, form, color and material you can get someone to produce for you.
Methods for building and assembling cabinets will vary based on manufacturer and the level of quality you pay for. There’s no need to become a master carpenter to be an informed cabinet buyer but there are some terms and construction techniques that you’ll probably encounter, even if it’s just browsing a cabinet maker’s brochure or website.
The important thing to take home on this subject is that there is a relationship between the type of construction and the cabinet’s level of quality and durability.
The following terms describe some common methods of wood cabinet “joinery” (‘joinery’ just being the trade term for how the various wood parts are joined together):
Dovetail joints – this is a strong method of joining two boards together at right angles, such as with drawer boxes. The ends of two boards or panels are notched with v-shaped cutouts that mesh with corresponding notches on the adjoining panel. If they’re tight, these types of joints are considered very solid.
Mortise and tenon – another form of joinery, this method uses a square “post” protruding from one end of a piece of wood that fits into a square hole or cutout in the mating piece. This type of joinery might be used to fasten the pieces of a cabinet’s face frame together
Dado – this is a groove that’s cut into a board or panel that the edge of another board/panel can fit into. A good example is the sides and back of a cabinet drawer that are dadoed to accept the edges of the drawer bottom. It’s a stronger way to ‘capture’ the drawer bottom than just gluing or nailing the drawer bottom edges to the side panels
Rabbet – this is not the kind that Elmer Fudd chases but rather, a notch or step that’s cut into the edge of a board to accept the edge of another board to form a 90-degree angle. It’s similar to a dada cut except one side is left “open”.
Doweled joint – this joinery technique uses round wood dowels (pegs) that are pressed and/or glued half way into holes drilled into one piece of wood. The protruding part of the dowel is then fit into holes drilled into the mating piece of wood. This method is another way to join the sides of drawers or cabinet boxes together.
Butt joint – on a butt joint, the ends of two pieces of material are brought or “butted” together, edge to edge. Some form of mechanical retention like nails, screws or glue is needed to hold this joint together.
Nails, screws, staples, glue – while these aren’t classified as true wood ‘joinery’ techniques, they’re included because they’re also used in a lot of cabinet assemblies. They either reinforce the wood joinery techniques or they’re used alone which makes for less-sturdy construction.
The bottom line on cabinet construction methods is that good joinery techniques where the parts ‘lock’ together or where one piece is captured in the other makes for the strongest joints. Supplemental fastening methods on these joints (such as a mortise and tenon joint plus screws) makes an even stronger connection. Stronger joints equate to more durable cabinets.
The overall quality of kitchen cabinets is closely linked to their construction, meaning how they’re put together and the materials they’re made from. You’ll be wise to pay close attention to these key features, particularly if you expect to live with them for a long time. Parts of your cabinets, particularly the drawers, take a lot of punishment so paying a bit extra for some added durability is a wise investment.
Key points to be aware of include the following:
They include particle board, MDF (medium density fiberboard), plywood, solid wood, metal and laminate/melamine (the laminate or melamine is laid over the particle board or similar substrate).
Construction and Design
Cabinets are constructed in one of two different design styles: framed or frameless. Framed cabinets employ a wood frame that outlines the front of the cabinet box. Frameless units don’t have this feature. Also, the joinery and techniques used to assemble and support them. Structural braces are made from plastic, wood or metal. Methods of joinery include hot-glue, staples and nails, or, more intricate woodworking techniques like dovetails and dadoes.
Door/Drawer hardware varies in quality and durability.
Quality: vary in level of quality, some use ball bearings whereas others use nylon wheels/rollers,
Mounting; physical location on the drawer (sidemount or on the bottom) which affects available drawer space. Shelf mounting brackets can be either plastic or metal.
Extension: Some hardware allows you to open the drawer all the way others have restrictions.
Soft close; Drawer hardware is available with soft-close, which stops the drawer from slamming shut, a worthwhile upgrade in the kitchen to avoid drawers slamming
Exposed and concealed:
Exposed hinges are the kind of cabinet hinge you see (or partially see) when the cabinet door is closed. Some have a self-closing feature but many do not. If you want a self-closing hinge you’ll need to specify that when you shop for hinges. Exposed hinges provide the maximum amount of cabinet door opening possible, up to 270 degrees. Limited adjustability and need to be drilled accurately.
Concealed (European) hinges cannot be seen when the cabinet door is closed. They’re also known as “hidden” hinges. These hinges are 2-way or 3-way adjustable (side-to-side, height, depth). This feature is useful for getting cabinet doors properly aligned with each other. Some Euro style hinges have a built-in self-closing feature. These hinges will pull the door closed when it is close to being shut and will hold it closed. Euro hinges allow for easy removal of the cabinet doors without having to remove the hinges from the cabinet. On some hinges this is achieved by use of a simple clip-on feature. European style hinges offer a range of door opening angles. Examples include 95, 100, 110 and 120-degree opening angles. Larger opening capabilities such as 170-degrees are available but wide-opening Euro-style hinges are often bigger and bulkier than hinges with smaller opening angles.
No Decorative Style
Concealed hinges, as their name implies, are hidden from view and have no real decorative appeal.
Hinges are manufactured to accommodate different variations in cabinet construction (framed/frameless, door overlay, etc.).
Some doors have a self-closing or “hands-free” element that will close the door in a controlled manner after you initiate the closing action.
Overhead Cabinets Lift Systems
Lift systems are available for overhead cabinets that open the door like an overhead garage door. Lift systems are available with easy-touch opening action as well as stay-in-place positioning. The mechanism can be adjusted to lift to the height you open it to. It stays there while you’re getting access to contents of the cabinet and the door can still be reached when it’s time to close it, rather than out of reach at a fully opened position.